Sunday – Travel from Denver to Rochester
I’m walking to my gate at DIA, impatient to get on an airplane that will take me to Minneapolis, where I’ll get in my rental car and drive eighty miles in unsettled spring weather to Rochester, home of the renowned Mayo Clinic. I find a spot to settle down near my gate with a comfortable one-seat gap between two normal looking people. Once I’m seated I immediately sense that the fellow to my right is peeking in my direction. He was probably in his sixties, with close cropped hair and gold rimmed glasses. He struck me as someone who took life pretty seriously.
After a couple of glances in my direction he addresses me directly. “Excuse me, but I couldn’t help noticing your head covering and I was wondering if I could ask you a question. I’ve been doing some reading.”
Uh, oh. I know where this is headed. I'm Jewish, my head covering is a yarmulke, and the question will be religious. I do a quick rundown of the pros and cons of engaging him – one of the pros is “this will give me something to do for the next 20 minutes until it’s time to board” - and decide that I’ll take the bait. I respond, “Sure, go ahead.”
“Why were Abraham and his descendants chosen by God?”
“Why were Abraham and his descendants chosen by God?”
I pause for a moment to ponder the rather startling shift in personal responsibility that I’ve just experienced. When I had taken a seat less than a minute earlier, I was debating whether I should take out my iPod or eat an orange-chocolate energy bar, or perhaps do both. Now I’ve been engaged in a discussion about the purpose of the universe. I consider whether it might be OK to go ahead and eat the energy bar while we’re discussing the universe, but in the end I decide it can wait.
He seemed genuinely curious, so I gathered my thoughts and answered as directly as I could. He considered and digested my response, and followed it with other questions; he wasn’t there to argue, which I greatly appreciated, but I could sense that he was holding something back. There was one question I knew he must have that I sensed was simmering inside him. Finally he let it out: “Why haven’t the Jews accepted Jesus as their savior and messiah?” I had a pretty direct answer for him, but I wanted to deliver it in a sensitive, thoughtful manner. So I asked myself: WWJD?
We ended up talking about concepts of heaven and hell (“Do you believe that Satan was kicked out of heaven?”), and in the end he seemed satisfied and we wished each other a safe flight. An interesting way to start off a trip.
After landing in Minneapolis I took an airport tram to Enterprise Car Rental to pick up the midsize that I’d reserved online for a very reasonable rate. At the counter I was greeted by a charming, beautiful rental agent. She left the counter to personally escort me to my car, peppering her conversation with personal questions. She had bright eyes and a brilliant smile, which she flashed whenever she spoke. I admittedly enjoyed the attention, but a thought stirred in the back of my mind that this behavior was slightly odd, and I was wary that a sales pitch of some sort was brewing. Once in the lot, she told me that business was slow and I could pretty much choose any car that I desired. She said nothing about the potential upgrade being free. So that’s her game, I thought.
After landing in Minneapolis I took an airport tram to Enterprise Car Rental to pick up the midsize that I’d reserved online for a very reasonable rate. At the counter I was greeted by a charming, beautiful rental agent. She left the counter to personally escort me to my car, peppering her conversation with personal questions. She had bright eyes and a brilliant smile, which she flashed whenever she spoke. I admittedly enjoyed the attention, but a thought stirred in the back of my mind that this behavior was slightly odd, and I was wary that a sales pitch of some sort was brewing. Once in the lot, she told me that business was slow and I could pretty much choose any car that I desired. She said nothing about the potential upgrade being free. So that’s her game, I thought.
Of course, a woman flirting with a man to make a sale is nothing new. In a trendy men’s store at a mall, for instance, a pretty sales agent might flirt with an unsuspecting guy who’s really just there to look around. She gives him a random compliment and might add a mischievous glance or two, and suddenly he’s in the mood for shopping. An hour later he’s sitting at home when his brain clears, and he finds himself staring blankly at a hideous, purple silk shirt that, according to the receipt (he doesn’t really remember the actual transaction), he purchased for a cool $95. The guy knows the shirt will never leave his closet but he’s too embarrassed to return it, and he vows he’ll never fall for that trick again. This happened to a friend of mine.
Anyways, I knew that an unlimited free upgrade sounded too good to be true and I was on to her, so I said, “Sure, what do you have?” I made a mental note that this sales technique is quite effective. She cheerily offered a Lincoln “for only $20 more per day!!” Twenty bucks extra per day for a Lincoln? I was a little taken aback by this, as I was under the impression that ‘upgrade’ meant, well, an upgrade. I asked if she could please just show me the midsize that I’d reserved, but she wasn’t ready to give up. She asked about renting an SUV or a crossover vehicle. No and no. “How about a PT Cruiser?” Sigh. I think she read the impatient look on my face, because at that point she decided to play her ace in the hole: they had an Infiniti M35 available for an extra $10 a day, and my face lit up - she’d won.
It took me 5 minutes to figure out how to start the M35 (you press the ignition button while your foot’s on the brake), but once that little obstacle was out of the way it was a kick to drive. Or could have been a kick to drive, I should say - the road from Minneapolis to Rochester was mind-numbingly dreary. In mid March the view was nothing but barren topsoil dotted with the occasional tree. Plus, by that time it was early evening and after a half day of travel I was pretty well exhausted. In retrospect, the M35 was wasted on me - I should have stuck with the boring midsize that I’d reserved (assuming that it actually existed). At least I had heated leather seats.
I checked in at my hotel in Rochester in the early evening and asked for the package of food which I had shipped to the hotel ahead of my arrival to accommodate my diet (I keep kosher). A few days prior I had tracked the package and seen a confirmed delivery, so I wasn’t overly concerned when I was told that they couldn’t find it. I couldn’t eat anyways at that hour because of the upcoming blood tests I had scheduled the following morning, so I told them what the package looked like and figured I’d pick it up when I came back from the clinic the following afternoon.
Monday – Test Boot Camp
After an OK night’s sleep with a little help from some Ambien, I arose early and drove the 1 mile or so from my hotel to the central hub of the Mayo Clinic. I parked at the Damon Ramp, a well-designed 11 story parking garage, took the elevator down to the “Subway Level”, and stepped into a spacious, well appointed, subterranean pedestrian tunnel, one of a network of tunnels which together connects nearly every building in the facility. I’m here.
The Mayo Clinic in Rochester is the largest medical facility of its kind in the world. There are several outpatient buildings ranging in size from large to enormous (two of the buildings are 20 stories high), and two big hospitals. I didn’t spend any time sightseeing (can you use that word in Rochester?), but I got the impression that the city and its inhabitants were all, to varying degrees, affected by the presence of this enormous hub of medical activity. Many hotels have free shuttles to Mayo. Exit signs and street signs direct drivers to Mayo. The Mayo buildings aren’t in downtown, they are downtown.
I was told by one of the nurses that Mayo employs 35,000 people. That’s about one out of every three residents in a moderately large city working for one employer. The Mayo’s size and reputation were so impressive that I was every bit as curious to see the facility as I was eager to hopefully begin unraveling the symptoms that had brought me here for my week long clinical study.
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| View of the Mayo and Gonda buildings, where most of my tests took place. |
Prior to my visit I had been mailed a detailed, easy to follow schedule with a list of my appointments and their respective locations. The schedule ran several pages and included an appendix at the back with additional information on what to expect during the various tests that I would be undergoing. I noticed with some trepidation that a ‘Sweat Test’ was scheduled for Tuesday morning, which I gathered from the appendix to be an extended stay in a small, windowed heat chamber, covered with sweat-sensitive powder (and not much else), while lying completely stationary for up to an hour. This didn’t sound like much fun, but the appendix also mentioned that music CD’s could be brought in to pass the time (or an iPod, I assumed), and they also had music that could be piped through the chamber speakers. How bad could it be? For now, I turned my attention to today’s schedule.
My first appointment was a blood draw at the Hilton Building at 7 a.m. This was technically on the other side of a busy street from my arrival point, but as I soon discovered, outdoor logistics (and weather, thankfully) were rendered meaningless once comfortably ensconced in the underground tunnels. I followed one of these tunnels now to the check in at Hilton and was given my first taste of Mayo, as it were.
Despite the early time (I arrived around 6:45 a.m.), a moderately long line had already formed in front of the check-in desk. I was concerned momentarily, but quickly realized that the line was moving briskly. When I reached the front of the line less than two minutes later I discovered how this was so. There were perhaps seven or eight check-in agents, and when called forward I was asked for my schedule. I handed it to the agent, who then scanned a barcode which I noticed was printed at the bottom of each page, and told me that I should proceed to a nurse’s desk on the other side of the room. That was it. The entire process took maybe ten seconds. I would have to check in about 15 times in the coming week, and I never failed to appreciate this model of efficiency.
At the nurse’s desk I was presented with a clear, plastic 3-liter jug for a 24-hour urine test. I was instructed to keep the jug with me until the following morning, when I would return the jug (with its contents, of course) to the same desk. I didn’t take the jug - at least not right away. I had a very public day awaiting me, and I pictured myself walking through busy corridors, sitting in busy waiting rooms, riding in busy elevators, and passing the hotel check-in staff at the end of the day, all while toting a large, clear jug containing steadily increasing quantities of pee. I was a little intrigued by the idea of carrying it through the hotel, as it would make a good test of customer relations: “Would you mind storing this jug in a fridge? I’ll just pick it up in the morning.” But even in a medical facility I imagined that the stares would be frequent, and I’d be given a wide berth on an elevator, or told “that’s OK, I’ll just wait for the next one.” I asked the nurse if she perhaps had something that I could carry the jug in, and thankfully she had a brown plastic bag that did the trick. I thanked her, and she pointed me to a set of purple doors across the room where I was to go and get my blood drawn.
I pushed through the purple doors and found myself in a large waiting area, with five or six long rows of comfortably padded chairs all facing expectantly in the same direction, towards a pair of hallways which were curtained on either side by a series of blood draw rooms. With no further instructions at hand, I found a seat and for the first time took in my surroundings a bit more carefully.
The seats and carpeting were patterned in soft blues and purples. Scandinavian wood panels with deep colors covered much of the wall space. And the air was textured with the sound of classical music. I recognized the pieces, but unfortunately they had been given the musical equivalent of a lobotomy – it was, of course, elevator music. The overall effect of the room was soothing and pleasant, but I attributed this more to the décor than the music. I couldn’t help wondering how one is trained to create elevator music. Are there courses in this field? If so, do you ace the final exam by putting the professor to sleep with your arrangement? “Terrific work, I was out cold after the first few bars. You’ve got the makings of something special. I’ve already set up interviews with a dental group and a couple of shopping malls.” I yawned and made a mental note to never think about the subject again.
Within about 5 minutes my name was called, and as we walked into one of the blood draw rooms the nurse asked me to state my name and date of birth. This would be repeated at every appointment in every department, clearly as a safeguard that the right person has been checked in. After filling a dozen or so vials of blood (I inquired whether they might also like a non-vital organ, but they declined), I was sent on my way. I checked the schedule and saw that an ECG was up next, so I made my way back through the tunnel to the Mayo building and took an elevator to the 5th floor, home of the Cardiovascular Clinic.
After checking in and having a seat in the waiting room (where I was greeted with more elevator music), I watched with some interest as people were called for their ECG. The Cardio floor actually has several waiting rooms, and this one was apparently reserved for this common procedure. When a nurse appeared at the entrance, rather than call one name at a time, she instead called a group of three or four, either all men or all women. After a couple of minutes I was taken with 3 other men, and we were led through the left most of two doorways (the other door obviously led into the women’s side) and into a very narrow hallway, about four feet wide. On one side was a series of small changing rooms; directly opposite each changing room was a door leading to a small room in which the electrocardiogram was performed. The nurse directed each of us into our own stall and instructed us to remove our shirts and replace them with a gown, and to push the door ajar when we were ready.
I changed into the gown, opened the door, and waited. By now I knew that the wait would be short, and within a minute or so the nurse led me across the hallway – a distance I covered in two steps – and into the ECG room. The room had a bed, which I was told to lie down on, and an arm extending from the wall which contained the necessary electric leads and wiring. There was nothing else in the room. The nurse attached the electrodes to my chest and stepped outside. In about 30 seconds she walked back in, unhooked the wires, and told me I was done. I took the two steps back into the changing room, dressed, and walked out. The whole process couldn’t have taken more than 3 minutes.
By now I was beginning to form a general impression of the clinic, which I would describe as ‘eerily pleasant’. For some reason, the combination of the soothing decor, the factory-like size and efficiency of the place, the unusually friendly staff and my active imagination brought to mind a large clinic in some sort of futuristic society like in Logan’s Run or Gattaca, except with more elevator music. I imagined ‘failing’ one of my tests and being told by a smiling nurse that I would need to come with her for ‘processing’. I’d catch the evil glint in her eye, say “of course,” then turn and make a mad dash for freedom. The elevator music would suddenly cease and the wall speakers would become a PA system, announcing an All Points Bulletin for my capture. I’d go careening through corridors and tunnels and sprint up and down stairways while being chased by all 35,000 Mayo employees until, by sheer luck, I would run into fellow escapee Jason Bourne (played by Matt Damon, of course). While guiding me to the rooftop of the 20-story Mayo Tower, he would explain that he was running because he had failed a psychological exam and that we were headed for the roof because he was getting too old to kill 35,000 people with his bare hands. Once on the roof, we would jump into the conveniently available emergency helicopter and fly to safety.
Of course, if this imaginary scenario became a Clint Eastwood screenplay the ending would need some rewriting. Most notably, after our triumphant getaway the copter would develop a critical fuel leak and we’d crash in a field just outside of Rochester. The film would end with Jason and I critically injured, being transported in an ambulance by a reassuring paramedic to… the Mayo Clinic, where we would meet our doom. For the movie-goer, the ‘take-home’ message that life can be randomly cruel and unfair would be driven home by the $10 spent on a movie that gradually filled you with hope and anticipation, then popped those warm emotions into your face and your popcorn when the protagonist suffered a gruesome, out-of-left-field, wildly random accident. On an unrelated note, I’m still bitter that I actually paid $10 to experience “Million Dollar Baby.”
Wow, what a digression! On second thought, maybe Mayo is just a big, well-run medical facility. In any case, more tests awaited. Next up was a tilt table test, in which the patient is strapped to a table while lying down, then tilted to near vertical and held in place until about 30 minutes have passed or the patient faints. This test is the primary tool for the diagnosis of POTS. For people like me who have this condition, blood flow is not regulated properly by the autonomic nervous system. While being held upright without the ability to shift positions, the blood volume returned to the heart begins dropping, and the heart responds by beating furiously to compensate. The dramatic increase in heart rate is the giveaway that the patient likely has POTS.
I had been put through a tilt table test several years earlier when I was originally diagnosed with POTS, so I wasn’t surprised when my heartbeat began ramping up after being tilted upright. Although the test should be outrageously boring (the nurses don’t talk to you or each other so as not to influence the results), the discomfort makes it an exercise in forbearance of suffering. I must have checked the clock about 300 times during the half hour that I was upright. Finally I was lowered and unstrapped, and I made my way to my next appointment.
After the usual orderly check-in, this time in the 19th floor of the Gonda building (Electrophysiology Dept.), I was led down a corridor to a lab walled on one side with windows, providing a breathtaking view of some other Mayo buildings and a looming pile of grey rain clouds. Maybe ‘breathtaking’ is a little strong. A large pedestrian courtyard and walkway flanked the base of the surrounding buildings. It was clearly designed to be used as a small urban park; there were trees, a small garden, and several attractive rod-iron benches. Although it was near midday, the only sign of life in the courtyard was a solitary figure walking briskly with her jacket hunched over her head. Turning my attention back inside the room, I noticed three computer monitors, all displaying scenes of swaying palm trees and white-sand beaches. I asked one of the nurses if there was a connection between the tropical fantasy within the room and the decidedly non-tropical scenery on the other side of the glass. She sighed, looked at the floor, and admitted that the weather in Rochester tended to be a little gloomy.
The test itself was forgettable. It was related to the endocrine system and involved an IV and lying on a bed for a half hour, which I passed by staring at the ceiling tiles and attempting unsuccessfully to take a nap. I know that the test revealed nothing unusual, but have no recollection what specifically was being tested. Maybe it was a memory test? In any case, when it was over I was given my first food of the day, a cup of orange juice and a couple of saltines. My day was nearly over. The last appointment was back in Cardiology, where I was connected to a Holter Monitor, a small portable device which records the patient’s heart rhythms over a 24-hour period. At about 1:30 p.m. the monitor was wired in place, and I was free to go. I was exhausted, and the added encumbrance of the monitor and my special 3-liter companion didn’t help my mood.
When I returned to the hotel I was more than a little hungry, evidenced by my eagerness to dive into my package of self-heating meals that by now the staff would surely have located. You know you’re hungry if you have a craving for a self-heating meal or airline food. I asked for my food package, which the hotel clerk had been unable to locate the night before but was confident would be found.
Now, before mentioning what happened next, I should point out that: 1) I had sent the package via FedEx, a very reliable company; 2) I had spoken to the manager of the hotel before sending the package, and they had assured me that they would be expecting its delivery and would hold it for me until my arrival date; 3) a couple of days before departing on my trip, I had received confirmation of delivery to the correct hotel at the correct address, as well as the illegible signature of the receiving party; and 4) patience is not one of my strong suits.
Naturally, what happened next was that I was told by the smiling clerk that they had been unable to locate my package. She asked, “Perhaps it was delivered to a different hotel?” I thought I did an admirable job of controlling my anger, but I noticed the clerk edging away from the desk as I took in this news. Maybe my eyeballs bulged a little. I assured her that I had checked with FedEx and had received a delivery confirmation at their hotel several days earlier.
The manager came out and apologized, promising to look further into the matter. She offered a free movie rental, which I accepted before leaving on a suddenly necessary trip to the local Hy-Vee supermarket. I bought a cheap pot and some spaghetti, as well as a few other odds and ends including cereal and milk. I was too tired to leave the hotel after returning, but I did make use of my free rental to watch “Breach”, a very good movie with Chris Cooper playing the American spy, Robert Hansson. I took another Ambien, attempted to find a comfortable sleeping position with my Holter monitor, and eventually passed out.
| The kitchen in my hotel room. |
